The Québec maritime Blog
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Middle Bay, Côte-Nord
Mathieu Dupuis/Tourisme Côte-Nord
Getting to Know the English-Speaking Communities of Eastern Québec
Serene coastal landscapes and charming towns serve as a backdrop for memorable cultural adventures in the maritime regions of Québec. Stretching along the shores of the St. Lawrence Estuary all the way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, these regions are among the most beautiful in the province of Québec.
Irish, British, Scottish, Jersey Islander and Loyalist American cultures have shaped Québec’s history, leaving traces throughout the province. Many of these English-speaking communities, big and small, highlight cultural harmony between French and English speakers and provide English services to locals and visitors. Today, a little over 7% of Québec’s population are native English speakers, and Eastern Québec is home to several English-speaking communities.
One of the advantages of visiting these communities is the access to information in English, which not only allows English-speaking tourists to have a deeper experience but also gives English-speaking locals a chance to shine and share their stories.
I’ve driven many of the roads in Eastern Québec, stopping in little villages and towns, practicing my bad French with kindly locals, and giving into guilty pleasures like buttery croissants and visits to English-speaking communities. I love living in Québec and learning the language (albeit slowly), culture and traditions, but when I come across an English-speaking community, my heart skips. There’s a small tug of connection, and my brain relaxes—it’s intoxicating.
Let’s talk about some great English-speaking communities in the maritime regions of Québec.
Îles de la Madeleine
I’ve visited the Îles de la Madeleine a few times over the years and fall deeper in love with this archipelago with each ferry crossing. Home to Québécois, Acadians and anglophones, the Islands are a captivating cultural mix. Grosse Île and Entry Island are the English-speaking communities here, their histories stretching as far back as the Paris Treaty of 1763 when Newfoundland was given administrative power over the archipelago.
Permitted to hunt walrus and harvest resources on the Islands, Colonel Gridley, an American serving in the British Army, took his sons, a handful of Acadian families, and some Canadian and Irish tagalongs to the Islands. They set up camp on Entry Island and hunted around Havre Aubert and Old Harry (Grosse Île). The establishment of the archipelago’s English-speaking communities, however, happened after the Islands were handed over to Admiral Isaac Coffin, a Loyalist American serving in the Royal Navy. Nova Scotians settled on Entry Island in 1822, followed by families and individuals from the Scottish Highlands, New Brunswick and Cape Breton. The English-speaking community of Grosse Île was established six years later when Nova Scotian families purchased lands from the Acadians.
Today, Grosse Île is the anglophone heart of the archipelago. The small Anglican parish church, Holy Trinity, is a must-see with its stained-glass windows depicting Jesus as a local fisherman. From there, head to the Old Harry Heritage Site to visit the Little Red School House, which provided an education to children of all ages from the Islands’ English-speaking community. The site also includes the Veterans Museum, which shares the stories of French- and English-speaking Islanders who served in both world wars as well as the Korean War.
Next, take a pedestrian ferry from Cap-aux-Meules to Entry Island, a destination that’s popular with both birders and hikers. The English-speaking community here is small and charming. There’s a great museum here cataloguing the history and culture of the island, which was first settled in the 1820s.
English speakers, however, can be found throughout the archipelago. Spend time in La Grave, on Havre Aubert Island, and visit the Musée de la Mer to learn about the Islands’ fishing history, including the English-speaking fishermen who lived and worked around this area.
Gaspésie
Gaspésie is a multi-day destination: no quick trips here unless you’re going to wear blinders and skip a lot of cool things! I tried that once and failed in the best possible way. This coastal region is home to several English-speaking communities and recognized as one of Canada’s 50 Places of a Lifetime by National Geographic Traveler.
In summer, I love stopping at the Reford Gardens near Métis-sur-Mer, a 3-floret town known for its beautiful horticulture. They’re one of the biggest English gardens in Canada and home to over 3000 flowers and plants, including the Himalayan blue poppy. The exhibit on Elsie Reford, a philanthropist, women’s rights activist and the gardens’ creator, is quite interesting as well.
Elsie Reford is a fascinating historical figure in Québec. The niece of George Stephen (Lord Mount Stephen), Elsie was among the Montréal bourgeoisie who fled the city’s summer heat for cooler coastal destinations in Gaspésie, like Métis-sur-Mer. Her uncle, who was the first president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, arranged for a train from Montréal to his fishing camp, Estevan Lodge. Elsie, along with many wealthy English-speaking families from Montréal, would spend her summers salmon fishing and horseback riding. Given Estevan Lodge after her uncle’s death in 1918, Elsie continued to spend her summers here, honing her horticultural skills for the next 30 years as she created gardens filled with blue poppies, rhododendrons, lilies, roses and peonies. Today, the Reford Gardens are a national historic site of Canada, and Métis-sur-Mer continues to attract wealthy families from the United States and Ontario.
Continuing on Route 132 to Gaspé, along Eastern Québec’s Lighthouse Trail, stop to sink your toes into the sand at Haldimand Beach, then head to Grande-Grave in Forillon National Park to learn about the English, Irish, Scottish, Jersey Islander and American cod fishermen who lived and fished here. Visit the Hyman & Sons General Store and learn about the life of fishermen-farmers at the Blanchette House. Then stop by the Dolbel-Roberts House to take in an exhibit on the people of various cultures and faiths who fished and processed cod here.
Almost a quarter of the residents of Percé (which is located 75 km [45 mi.] south of Gaspé via Route 132) are native English speakers, so travelling here as an anglophone is quite easy. If you’re lucky and the roads are quiet, the hill just before Percé offers an incredibly photogenic view of famous Percé Rock as well as the town and coastal landscape.
The number of English-speaking communities increases as you continue your drive along Route 132. Hope Town is a small hamlet founded in 1768 by Duncan McRae, a Scottish soldier, and his friend John Ross, both of whom served with General Wolfe. It’s a great spot for camping. Over half of the population of New Carlisle are also English speakers. Learn about local history at the Kempffer Cultural and Interpretation Centre and see if you can find all of the town’s cute and quirky painted fire hydrants!
A visit to the Battle of the Restigouche National Historic Site takes visitors through the final naval battle in 1760 between France and England for the North American territory known as New France. It was here, in the estuary of the Restigouche River, at the head of Chaleur Bay, that the French dropped anchor thinking it impossible for the British to breach the bay. Ships were scuttled, the French moved inland, and eventually supplies were cut off. The French held tight, but in the end, the British were the victors. Visit this fascinating historic site to learn more about this confrontation as well as about the Acadians and Mi’gmaq who lived in this area.
Côte-Nord’s Lower North Shore
The English-speaking communities of the Lower North Shore, in the Côte-Nord region, were first established in the early 20th century when fishermen from Newfoundland were brought over to work in the fishery plants. To access this area located along the shores of the St. Lawrence Estuary near the Québec-Labrador border, you have several options. Relais Nordik’s supply ship will take you all the way to Blanc-Sablon on a cruise that stops in lovely remote villages along the Lower North Shore, including Harrington Harbour, which is famous for its boardwalks. You can also drive to Blanc-Sablon from Baie-Comeau via the Trans-Labrador Highway, which stretches from Labrador City to Red Bay. Finally, you can fly into St. John’s, Newfoundland, and then drive to Blanc-Sablon via a short ferry ride. (Note that there are no roads between most of the villages along the Lower North Shore.)
Upon arriving in Blanc-Sablon, be sure to admire the statue of Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes, a wooden Madonna carved in France. Driving west on Route 138, Belles-Amours is an intriguing hamlet with a history of sealing and Basque fishermen. Next, stop to see the Brador Falls on your way to the interpretation centre in Middle Bay. Finally, visit the Whiteley Museum, which was named after William Henry Whiteley, the inventor of the cod trap. It’s an interesting little museum on local fishing history in Rivière-Saint-Paul, a picturesque village known for its salmon fishing, icebergs, marine life and other wildlife.
Eastern Québec has a rich history, and I love learning about the contributions of the small English-speaking communities here. The coastal landscapes, fresh salty air and delicious food help too!
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