Bas-Saint-Laurent… The land offers rich agricultural and forested landscapes bordered to the south by the state of Maine and the province of New Brunswick and to the east by the region of Gaspésie. The water, from Kamouraska to Sainte-Luce, offers a wide horizon to gaze at from dawn till dusk. Locals say: “This side is the sea!” And they’re quite right: the St. Lawrence Estuary, with its persistent tides and briny air, where the sun sets in dazzling displays of blushing pinks and blues like nowhere else in the world, offers all the splendours of the sea. A sea whose salty waters abound with culinary treasures!

Little-known local shellfish

Snow crab, green sea urchin, black sturgeon, eel… Is your mouth starting to water yet?

Snow crab is the traditional “icebreaker” of the season! As soon as the St. Lawrence is navigable in the spring, the crab boats from Rimouski are the first to head out to sea. Their departure presages the arrival of fresh seafood: enthusiasts await their return with barely concealed excitement! The locals will line up to purchase this fresh shellfish, which has sweet, firm meat with salty undertones. The legs and meat are also frozen, which means you can treat yourself to this delicacy even out of season. Dips, rillettes, soups, gazpacho, dumplings, lasagna… crabmeat lends itself to an astonishing variety of culinary dishes!

Atlantic sturgeon, which has been on Earth for at least 200 million years, is sought after primarily for the quality of its flesh, which is mostly enjoyed smoked. Only a few fishermen using traditional methods dating back several generations hold a license to catch this species. Since Atlantic sturgeon is relatively rare, you’ll only be able to enjoy this delicacy in Québec. It makes a tasty addition to an impromptu picnic, especially during the full moon in August, which is known as the Sturgeon Moon by some First Nations people.

A must-try for foodies is green sea urchin, known as sea foie gras, an emerging local product that is increasingly appearing on chefs’ tables. These spiky sea hedgehogs are harvested for their gonads. Their reproductive organs are filled with bright orange eggs, which have a sweet and briny flavour. They are best eaten fresh or in a cream sauce on scrambled eggs… Dare to try this unusual flavour! Green sea urchins are hand-collected by divers in sea farms. Out of season, the caviar can be purchased frozen or canned.

Another must-try is eel from Bas-Saint-Laurent! The flesh of this flaky sweet fish (it’s not a reptile!) is often available smoked; however, if you ever get the chance, try it poached in milk and then roasted and served in its flavoured cooking juices or marinated and then grilled and served with a mixture of soy sauce and maple syrup. Yum! Given that this species is vulnerable, Kamouraska is one of only two places in Canada (the other being Charlevoix) where traditional weir fishing is still allowed for fewer than 10 fishermen.

Tideland plants: Natural flavour enhancers

Magtogoek (“the path that walks”) is the name given to the St. Lawrence by First Nations people. What a joy to discover the rich flavours that these people know how to appreciate so well! Here are a few of the many edible tideland plants on offer in Bas-Saint-Laurent: crunchy and salty sea spinach; elegant sea rocket, which adds a slight horseradish taste to salads; beach sandwort, which is delicious sautéed with vegetables; sea parsley, which can be used in many recipes as a substitute for flat-leaf parsley; and samphire (or sea asparagus), which is a great seasoning for fish or salads and can also be enjoyed as a crunchy snack with a local beer from the Tête d’Allumette microbrewery.

Traditional know-how: Smoking fish and weir fishing

In Bas-Saint-Laurent, smoking fish is a traditional preservation technique that is deeply rooted in the region’s culinary identity, especially in L’Isle-Verte. In the past, herring, which was so abundant, was smoked in this area. Today, it’s mostly eel and sturgeon from the St. Lawrence. Smoked salmon and trout are also available, but both species are farmed. All of these products are hot or cold smoked, and each artisan has their own secrets that you can enjoy discovering as you would fine wines!

So, what is weir fishing, you may ask? This traditional fishing method, which is based on techniques used by First Nations people, involves installing a fence of nets mounted on stakes perpendicular to the shore. At high tide, eels approaching the shore attempt to get around the fence by swimming alongside it. However, the fence leads to a trap, which the eels can’t escape. Ingenious, right?

Inspiring chefs and food artisans: Where to savour local sea flavours

Here are a few places to visit where you can try innovative and tasty seafood dishes and/or find exceptional takeout items to enjoy during a delicious picnic or as appetizers or meals.

• Auberge Comme au Premier Jour (Saint-Pacôme): This inn welcomes you in a dining room with a country-style atmosphere. Enjoy a meal featuring various sea flavours such as smoked eel or local halibut.
• Côté Est (Kamouraska): This bistro offering views of the sea is a popular place to eat. The menu features local seafood and other ingredients, which you can enjoy in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.
• Auberge du Chemin Faisant (Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac): Innkeepers and restaurant owners Marine and Baptiste Massol work together to offer you amazing culinary adventures, including an 8-course gourmet festival featuring flavours of the sea.
• April bistro (Notre-Dame-du-Portage): Located in Auberge sur Mer, this restaurant offers seasonal cuisine featuring fish, seafood, poultry and other meat dishes, which are served in a charming dining room with large windows overlooking the sea.
• Auberge du Mange Grenouille (Le Bic): Open since 1990, this inn located in a former general store offers authentic old-time charm and a theatrical atmosphere. The menu varies with the seasons but always features local fish and seafood dishes.
• Snack bars offering fish and seafood: Don’t miss Cantine Côtière in Saint-Fabien and Grand'Ourse in Kamouraska.
• For fresh or smoked fish and seafood: All of these fish markets offer fresh, smoked, marinated and/or frozen fish and seafood as well as takeout dishes: Marché des 3 Fumoirs in L’Isle-Verte, Poissonnerie Lauzier (which also has a bistro) and Pêcheries Ouellet in Kamouraska, Les Trésors du Fleuve in Rivière-Ouelle, Poissonnerie Bonne Bouffe in Rivière-du-Loup and Place Lemieux in Rimouski.

Seafood availability in Bas-Saint-Laurent

The fishing or harvesting seasons mentioned below are provided as general guidelines only. Dates may vary according to the authorizations issued by the Minister of Fisheries, Oceans and the Canadian Coast Guard.

• Green sea urchin: March to May and October to December (when the gonads are fleshiest)
• Snow crab: Late March to late June
• Atlantic sturgeon: Mid-May to mid-August
• Tideland plants: Usually all summer
• Eel: September and October (after spending up to 25 years in fresh water, eels travel up the St. Lawrence and migrate back to the Sargasso Sea in the Bermuda Triangle to spawn and die)

Bas-Saint-Laurent, a region of picturesque villages and scenic roads—
and a sea of flavours worth discovering!